Our Paris Travel Guide

We kicked-off our backpacking trip in Paris, and ugh, what a dream. I had been to Paris as a teen in 2017 and then again when I studied abroad in 2011. I have counted it among my favorite places in the world, though I was curious how I would feel more than a decade after my last visit. It seems people who’ve been to Paris either love it …or hate it.  I have personally found the City of Light to be so much more than the tourist attractions and crowds many people are familiar with. 

Additionally, although it’s pricey compared to other places we’re going, a visit to Paris doesn’t have to be cost-prohibitive. I’ve chatted with people who tell me they associate Paris with things like high-fashion, white table cloth dinners and pretentiousness. While Paris does have luxury shopping areas and Michelin-starred restaurants, there’s also an endless number of charming cafes, spots to sit along the Seine and impressive architecture and history all around. In my experience, the people are friendly, the food is delicious and the city has such a sense of beauty and romance. 

Where we stayed

We booked an Airbnb in Paris’ 10th Arrondissement. The city is split into 20 Arrondissements, or neighborhoods. Honestly, I did not know much about the 10th. We did not book our Airbnb based on its location, other than reviews from past guests saying the immediate area was safe and near transit and restaurants. We chose that specific Airbnb because it was one of the most cost effective options, with good reviews, that also included AC (a rarity in Paris). 

All that said, we LOVED the 10th. I could go on and on, but suffice it say, there’s so much life in this Arr. We were on a quiet, charming street with a little cafe called Le Look, which we visited several times. The owner couldn’t have been more kind. And just down the street, there was a bustling intersection with cafes on every corner. We also found cool vintage shops, a great bookstore, wonderful bakeries, tons of grocery options and restaurants ranging from traditional French fare to Turkish pizzas and West African cuisine. We loved a little corner bar called Le Chateau d’Eau. You should also check out the charming Cour et Passage des Petite Ecuries. It means ‘Courtyard of the Small Stables’. Once home to horses, it’s now the site of half a dozen charming restaurants and cafes. 

The 10th is also an easy jumping off point for a Parisian adventure. You’re on the Right Bank (north of the Seine), bordering the charming Marais area and the 1st Arr where the Louvre and other major attractions are located. It’s easy to walk or hop on the Metro. 

Favorite eats and drinks

Croissants- I wanted a croissant on our first morning in Paris. We woke up before the sun (thanks jetlag) and did a quick Google of ‘best croissants in Paris’. I was thrilled to find one of the award-winning croissants was located near us in the 10th Arr.! Carton is right down the road from the busy Gare du Nord train station. It won first place in 2022 for ‘best butter croissant in Greater Paris’ from the trade union of bakers. We walked up there and got a croissant, a quiche and two espressos and GUYS. The hype is real. It was the perfect buttery, flaky, crisp but soft croissant. Highly recommend. 

Traditional French food - We also loved our dinner at Bouillon Julien. Again, in a little Google of best inexpensive eats in Paris, we found a gem of a place right in our neighborhood. Bouillon Julien serves up traditional French fare in a stunningly ornate space and the prices are so great for budget travel. It feels lovely and indulgent but won’t break the bank. I think my wine was $2, and it was good.

Moroccan food - Lastly, we did lunch at the Marche Saint Quentin, a lovely glass enclosed market. There are fruit, meat, seafood and cheese stands, but there are also a diverse number of stalls serving up food to eat on the spot. Bret and I shared several yummy items from Le Marrakech. 

Can’t miss activity

Watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle while seated on the Seine. This is such a lovely, quintessentially Parisian activity that costs virtually nothing. I love watching the Iron Lady light up. The sparkly show happens every hour, on the hour, after sundown. It lasts about five minutes. I had previously watched it from the lawn in front of the monument, but this time we decided to park ourselves along the Seine. We found spots just west of the Passerelle Debilly bridge, parked ourselves on the concrete with some boxed wine and Pringles and enjoyed the show – twice! There are lots of people who bring out snacks and wine and sit along the river or watch from the bridge. Really wonderful. 

Musee de l’Orangerie is one of my favorite museums. It’s located not too far from the Louvre in the Tuileries. It is a much smaller museum than the Louvre though. And it features impressionist works, which I love. Most notable and a truly stunning piece to take in is the Monet Water Lilies. The panels of art are displayed in an oval shaped room. The museum asks everyone to remain quiet and for the most part people do. It’s a really special experience to sit and take it all in. Then on the lower level there are impressionist pieces from many of the big names. Matisse, Renoir. It’s a really fantastic museum and absolutely worth a $12 entry fee.

Taking a Seine River Cruise is one of my favorite ways to see the beauty of Paris. You can find tickets for around $14 a person. Ours were $19 a person, including one drink. It’s such a magical way to experience the city. We did ours when it was still light outside. I imagine it’s even more magical at sunset! 

Place des Vosges is one of my top parks in Paris. It’s the oldest planned square in the city. The park itself is right between the 3rd and 4th Arr., and we walked through the charming Marais area to get there. Place des Vosges is really lovely. It’s a smaller, less crowded park area with lots of benches and playground equipment. And the surrounding architecture is stunning. 

Not worth the hype 

I will say here with no hesitation: the Champs-Elysees. Admittedly, we did not intentionally visit this famous Avenue in the 8th Arr. Rather, we were aiming to see the Arc de Triomphe and coming from the Tuileries, Champs-Elysees is the direct walking route. 

The area is full of tourists. I mean, body to body. It’s hard to walk down the street. Bret and I also did a quick check of several menus and the prices are much higher than other parts of the city– for a much less charming experience. I really don’t know that it’s worth checking this out. If you want to see the Arc de Triomphe, you can take the Metro right there and avoid the chaos. 

Getting around

Public transit is pretty easy to navigate in Paris! We took the train from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Gare du Nord, which happened to be about a half mile from our Airbnb. Once you get through customs, it’s pretty easy to find your way to the train and the ticket kiosks are well marked. 

Once in the city center, we walked most places, but getting around via metro is also fairly straightforward! You can purchase individual rides, but keep in mind the ticket kiosks are not available at every metro entrance. 

Other memorable moments and lessons learned

Get to Montmartre early - When I first visited Montmartre with my family, and upon my return in college, I LOVED this area. I remember the artists, the charming buildings, and sitting on the steps of Sacre Coure looking out over the city.  It’s all still incredibly charming! However, Bret and I had a bit of a rocky start to what was actually our first major Paris attraction. We arrived to the base of the church, Sacre Coure, just after 11 am on a weekday. It was already PACKED. There were tons of people visiting – and tons of people trying to sell trinkets and friendship bracelets in a bit of a pushy way. We snapped some photos but didn’t linger. Once we got out of the chaos around the church, we wandered through some of the winding streets, snapped some more pictures and got to enjoy the area a bit more. We then headed back toward the main square, where artists set up their work in the center and restaurants line the streets. It was equally as crowded as it had been at the church, so we didn’t spend much time there either. I still think Montmartre is a unique part of the city and worth a visit. We found most places around Paris to be much calmer in the early morning hours. So perhaps start your day early to have the best experience. You may also find fewer crowds in the evening, when the sun has gone down! 

Visiting Arc De Triomphe for free - The view of the Arc de Triomphe is certainly impressive from across the street, but it’s also fun to stand right underneath it. When you get to the general area, there’s not super clear directions as to how to cross over to the Arc. There are actually a couple staircases leading to an underground passageway that will get you there. We entered from the corner at Avenue des Champs Elysees and Pl. Charles de Gaulle. Once you get down into the passageway, you’ll see signs and a ticket office. You don’t actually have to get a ticket to stand underneath the Arc. You only need tickets to get to the top of it! When we visited, there was a line of people trying to buy and scan their tickets to ride to the top. It’s a bit confusing, but there’s actually a separate column in the same stairwell that allows non-ticketed visitors to simply walk up the steps and stand at the Arc’s base. We walked past it once, because it appeared to be an entrance for ticket holders only. So keep your eyes peeled!

Take time to wander - This is a lesson I’m still trying to learn. I have a tendency to want to plan every detail to make sure we don’t miss an important site or great restaurant. Bret has taught me the art of taking a slower pace, and honestly, I think that’s when you get to see the real magic of Paris. Especially if you’re someone who is uncertain about the city, I encourage you to go on a leisurely stroll, pick any sidewalk cafe and take a moment to just sit back and soak it all in.